The same principle is used for shaping the deck curve and rails. For example if you wanted to shape a 10 pence piece, then you’d cut out a 50 pence piece then sand off the edges smoothly. The trick to shaping any curve is to put flats in first. If you watch a shaper at work, they move in long sweeps as they work on the board. Don’t forget that fibreglass will add extra thickness to it, so either allow for it by shaping it slightly thinner or just be prepared for your board to look a little thicker than you imagined.Ī fluid shape requires a fluid shaper. rocker line and then nose, deck and tail thickness. The foil of the board is shaped first i.e. So if in doubt, switch to coarse sandpaper on blocks to shape. The electric planer in skilled hands makes things much quicker, but in unskilled hands can lead to some major changes to your dimensions. A lot of this is down to eye now, so take your time and measure twice, cut once. Make sure you cut it square and leave a margin for error. You’re ready to start, so mark up your planshape onto the blank and then cut it out with a handsaw. A little tip is to set the bases in old 20 litre paint tubs filled with cement. You can make these yourself, but you’ll be cutting foam, laminating and sanding all on these so make sure they’re built solidly. These are basically two stands in a Y or T shape, at about waist height with a really heavy base. They’ll also stock all the specialist equipment mentioned above.Īll of the above would be useless without a decent set of trestles to bring your creation to life on. There are kits available from the big suppliers in Europe such as Homeblown and Seabase. Then you need your blank (foam core), fibreglass and resin. Sandpaper in long strips and on blocks for the rails, deck and hull shaping. It needs to be somewhere that you don’t mind covering in foam and glass dust, as well as dripping resin on the floor.īefore you get started you’ll need all the kit, and there’s a lot of it electric planer, hand planer and spokeshave. So you’ve got your design and dimensions, next you’re going to need a fairly large space such as a garage to do all this in. If you want to start from scratch then check out AKU shaper online - it’s freeware which most shapers use for their ideas. Check out the many board guides out there and then take your pick of what you want. ![]() There are three main stages to board building shaping, glassing and finishing. Not that I’m trying to put you off, because making your own board is something truly special and it should be encouraged. ![]() I had bought templates for 5 m wood boat.that took 500 hrs to build.So you’ve decided that you want to make your own board? You’ve built a few IKEA cabinets already, so how hard can it be? Well first thing is you’ll need a place to do it, lots of kit and even more time and patience. Totally do- able.I've done it back in pre CnC days, actually pre computer days. Other way is to print out on many peices of paper, tape together, glue them to masonite and cut with jigsaw and then file or sand them down to line. I am arranging parts on the 4x8 masonite for the CnC machine. The templates are too long, so the outline and profile curves have to be split in half lengthways to fit. so I create an artboard ( page size) that is 4x8 and place the template outlines on the artboard. ![]() This cannot be cut out of a 4x8 ft sheet of masonite. Then I know they are clean.Īt this point I have profile ( side view of rocker and deck) and outline ( top view) of entire board. So I just use the imported dxf curves as guides and redraw them in illustrator. You can tell the math is getting corrupted. I have found that curves can be converted to line segments, which are not accurate.Īlso, the curves are really messy, segmented and lots of control points. When I export the 3d files from solid works or Shape 3d, I then open those files in Illustrator.
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